::Tutorial:: Display Wall

Tools & Materials Needed:
::6:: 1″x2″ 6′ Boards/Planks (~$17)
::12:: 1″x2″ x 1.5′ Boards/Planks (I got 6 3′ boards and just cut them in half so I had an excuse to use the jigsaw) (~$10)
::60:: 1-1/2″ Wood Screws (I would get shorter ones for the hinges so they don’t poke through for next time) (~$8)
::4:: Hinges (~$7)
::1:: 9’x12′ Drop Cloth (some kind of heavier material) (~$18)
Screwdriver/Power Drill, Pliers, Measuring Tape, Hammer, Stapler, Scissors (Level & T-bar were not used but would have been useful)
Drapery Hooks for securing art to the finshed panel (with binder clips or paper clips)(~$3)
I didn’t have to purchase any of the tools as they were already in my possession. The boards, screws, hinges, drop cloth and hooks ended up totaling about $60 – a fraction of the cost of ordering art display walls/panels.

::6:: 3′ planks cut into ::12:: 1-1/2′ planks with brute force.

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::3:: 6’x1-1/2′ frames created from the planks.  The 2 shorter bars going across in the middle just help make the frame more stable. The big push toward making my own panels versus buying them pre-made was expense and customization. Doing it myself was cheap and I could figure out what size best fit my needs.

Drop cloth is cut to the size of the frames, plus an inch or two on all sides? With the amount I had, I was able to double the material over for each panel. I eyeballed the overhang based on what would wrap around to the back of the frame comfortably. Enough material to grab on to with the pliers but not enough to have to trim again.


I basically borrowed from canvas wrapping. There are many ways to wrap, the method I used was starting to staple from the middle and just rotating around until I get dizzy and the drop cloth is tight (numbers on the left image denote a makeshift stapling pattern.). The pliers were a good lever for gripping the material enough to pull it tight against the frame for stapling. As for folding the corners, I am not descriptive enough. A simple search for “How to fold canvas corners” should lead you in the right direction. I just use trial an error until the fabric is neat against the edge. Almost like wrapping presents.

Hinges added. One toward the top, one toward the bottom to connect the 3 panels in an accordion fashion.

Yikes. Good thing no one is looking at it from the back. Don’t forget to pick the right size screw for the job.

Ermergerd, they stand up on their own! Victorious!

Say what? Hang some art from it now? K!

Can Sanding Essentials

I grabbed a few different sanding attachments to chip away at these relatively good condition milk cans. The sander attached to the drill was the most flexible, but didn’t have much bite. It was better for smoothing the rough painted areas and getting into the curved sections than for taking off the layers. The black chunky one below the drill had some nice sanding power. The wire brush took off the paint quickly but didn’t cover quite enough area for my liking. I also grabbed a buffer pad and some paper towels to wipe away the build up of powdered rust.

The best bet is to sand down to the metal, trying to remove all traces of rust, probably while wearing a face mask in case there are lead based paints present. After a good long while there is noticeable progress. Then it is time to brush away the rust and throw down some sort of rust-stopper paint. So far I have stuck with Rust-oleum spray paint for all my metal projects but there are alternative products and a variety of colors if you’d like a base color other than black. After all the priming then it’s time for the oils or acrylics and then the real fun begins.

*Follow up* – Shortly after finishing this process I realized it’s also an option to make an inquiry to a car garage to see if they would sandblast it for you or find a way to acquire a sandblaster for yourself through borrowing, renting or buying.  I am going to try this option for the next saw blade I paint. It sounds faster and less dusty.